A Design-Sew Weekend ...with a budding fashionista

First read the story and see the photos here. Then enjOY the techniques below!


Technique I: Facing-turns-into-Piping

Sometimes we just have to think about our design goals, aim there, and work with what we already know. Here's an example.

I wanted to create understatment or utter simplicity along the neckline edge in front. BUT...I also wanted a jazzy edge for the back, something to go with the "surprise pop" of my Mom's old lace featured there. So I had to put my thinking cap on.

I liked the look of the striped doupioni on the bias. I knew how to make piping; and facing. Hmmmm....I asked myself, "What would happen if I blended the techniques?" We can think about design goals, and feel free to innovate, or blend known techniques together, to bring a vision to life!

In the photo below, can you see how the neckline finish looks like facing along the inside of the front neckline (farthest away in the photo)? Also, how it is standing up, as an unfilled piping, along the back neckline where the lace is? I had fun with this.
It's always good to solve a puzzle.



After attaching the bias strip to the neckline, it was gently rolled-and-folded completely to the inside of the garment, along the front edge. As I continued to roll it over along the back neckline, I gradually allowed it to stand up; until it reached its full height along the center back.


Using the BERNINA edgestitch foot, #10D on my 830 machine, helped me keep all my stitching where I wanted it. The two rows of stitching appear nicely parallel on the outside of the garment.


In this photo, you can also see the inside view of the doupioni as it stands up in back.


Back View with the "surprise pop"



Technique II: Simple Couching ...searching for a perfect weight-of-line


Did mention I enJOY a puzzle? :-)

I really liked the funky, zippered look of the serged edge along the white raw silk on the back lace panel. See below. I was also happy that the serging would prevent unraveling. BUT ...I did feel the edge looked a little unfinished. So, in order to find just the right edge trim, I went exploring...

How hard or soft should the transition or the edge's line weight be? Should I use ribbon? Oops, no...the ribbon is the wrong shade of black. The bottom line here is, if you enJOY the puzzle, you'll find your way. And simply love the Ah Ha moment, when the best solution presents itself. The more fun you find in a puzzle, the more you practice and learn.


I ended up happy with the image, below on the left.

To satisfy my eye, this edge required an orchid-colored bean stitch, in Isacord thread, running through the serged edge. (Again, the edgestitch foot was very handy). The outer part of the edge was done with simple couching. I set a narrow zig zag stitch to attach a flat, "linguini" style of nylon yarn, along the outside edge. I loved that the yarn offered just a tiny bit of sparkle. So the feeling of the finished edge was, in my mind, elegant and funky. Just right I thought! A little bit wild and a little bit demure; punk and pink. So much fun to wander...

Here I'm using the nice outer guide that came with the BERNINA #45 Rotary Punch Tool. It's handy way beyond needlepunch. I use it whenever I'm feeding linear materials to the needles, and wish to keep them up off of the surface. I do this because it creates a nice even flow of materials to the needles. The foot is BERNINA 12C. It has a tunnel to guide and hold the linear material, while you place your choice of stitch over it.

In case you missed the story, read it here

enJOY your adventure, wherever it leads!